Tuesday, 30 March 2010
Sunday, 7 March 2010
Cheap Garden Tools For the Frugal Gardener
The main reasons that people garden are growing food for home use and distribution to family, friends, and neighbors; taking pride in a hobby that can be easily seen and admired, and lastly, to save money. Gardening saves money and that's just a fact. Fresh veggies that are tasty and good for you are certainly proof.
However, one of the drawbacks of gardening is that some aspects of it can be a bit expensive. The most expensive part of gardening is the tools that are required to do a good job, and make the hobby more enjoyable. The good news is, there are some ways that can make it less expensive. One has to be just a little enterprising.
Most of the garden tools needed can be purchased at dollar stores. The small hand tools, gloves and aprons are plentiful at the dollar store and are, well, a dollar. Buy several at a time and then buy a container that will house as well. A buck apiece. This is a good start.
The next place for good inexpensive garden tools is the flea markets and rummage sales. There are many items that are available that sellers will reduce their prices just to get rid of. A recent purchase of a tiller for ten dollars that needed blade sharpening proves this. Seeds, potting soil, and even pots can be found. The last day of rummage sales are the best times to go and get the best harvest of deals. It is the same with estate sales. They too offer large supplies of items that can be purchased at a good price.
Another way to get the tools and equipment for gardening that you need is to simply ask. Gardening tools and equipment are wonderful gifts for Christmas and birthdays. They are a no brainer, and easy to find. Though many people would overlook this option, the gardener can request the stuff they want and really get it. After all, garden tools are generally one-stop shopping in most stores and has a wide range of prices. So what if you have three hand shovels?
The last proven way to secure the equipment and tools that are needed for gardening is to shop for these items off-season. January and February are the best months to buy lawn and garden equipment at good prices and seeds are readily available. At times, the new trends in gardening are available for the next season, and also in time for new garden additions.
You can learn more about electric garden tools, and get much more information about garden tools at lawn garden tools
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Derek_Farley
However, one of the drawbacks of gardening is that some aspects of it can be a bit expensive. The most expensive part of gardening is the tools that are required to do a good job, and make the hobby more enjoyable. The good news is, there are some ways that can make it less expensive. One has to be just a little enterprising.
Most of the garden tools needed can be purchased at dollar stores. The small hand tools, gloves and aprons are plentiful at the dollar store and are, well, a dollar. Buy several at a time and then buy a container that will house as well. A buck apiece. This is a good start.
The next place for good inexpensive garden tools is the flea markets and rummage sales. There are many items that are available that sellers will reduce their prices just to get rid of. A recent purchase of a tiller for ten dollars that needed blade sharpening proves this. Seeds, potting soil, and even pots can be found. The last day of rummage sales are the best times to go and get the best harvest of deals. It is the same with estate sales. They too offer large supplies of items that can be purchased at a good price.
Another way to get the tools and equipment for gardening that you need is to simply ask. Gardening tools and equipment are wonderful gifts for Christmas and birthdays. They are a no brainer, and easy to find. Though many people would overlook this option, the gardener can request the stuff they want and really get it. After all, garden tools are generally one-stop shopping in most stores and has a wide range of prices. So what if you have three hand shovels?
The last proven way to secure the equipment and tools that are needed for gardening is to shop for these items off-season. January and February are the best months to buy lawn and garden equipment at good prices and seeds are readily available. At times, the new trends in gardening are available for the next season, and also in time for new garden additions.
You can learn more about electric garden tools, and get much more information about garden tools at lawn garden tools
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Derek_Farley
Choosing the Best Tools For Gardening
Best Gardening Tools
Strictly speaking, gardening can be done with the most rudimentary tools. After all, all over the world, especially in remote Third Word countries, people still use extremely primitive tools for farming and do gardening and they still end up producing a crop albeit of a lower quantity. Even though a pair of willing hands and some gloves can do some excellent gardening all by themselves, working with tools can maximize one's effectiveness and ensure better results.
Tools for gardening can be found in gardening stores and also in large supermarkets. Depending on what task one wants to perform, there is a large variety of tools available at very affordable prices. Actually, good gardening does not have to require state-of-the-art tools. A pair of good leather gloves, some leather boots, a pair of secatuers and a rake can serve you well and perform a whole range of simple tasks. A secatuer costs around $60.00 for a good one but one can sometimes find good ones for less than that. Secatuers can come in different types. There are those whose blade can be sharpened or even replaced meaning if one becomes worn out there is no need to purchase a new one altogether.
Purchasing gardening tools also depends on a variety of factors. One of them is the size of the garden. For instance, if you have a small garden, there would be no need for a ride-no mower. A regular trimmer would suffice just fine.
Hedge trimmers are also come in handy where there is hedges around the garden which tend to overgrow. In many houses especially in the United States, there is a deed agreement that tells the owner of the home his actual boundaries as far as being able to make modifications. That is why hedge trimmers are important because they ensure that your garden does not grow and spill over into the neighbor's property. Hedge trimmers also come in different styles, some which have curved blades which ensure that the plants do not slide out when being trimmed.
Forks are also ideal when dealing with compost and breaking up lumps of soil. When purchasing a fork, it is good not to go for the very cheap ones because they do not perform well especially if the soil is hard. While a good fork can cost up to $100.00, every gardener should have one or two.
Shovels are also extremely important to gardening. Costing somewhere in the $50.00 dollar range they are almost indispensable. Among them are a pruning saw and a chipping hoe.
Jackie Winn is the owner of http://gardentipsandsecrets.com a website which aims to provide help and information to the budding gardener.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jackie_Winn
Strictly speaking, gardening can be done with the most rudimentary tools. After all, all over the world, especially in remote Third Word countries, people still use extremely primitive tools for farming and do gardening and they still end up producing a crop albeit of a lower quantity. Even though a pair of willing hands and some gloves can do some excellent gardening all by themselves, working with tools can maximize one's effectiveness and ensure better results.
Tools for gardening can be found in gardening stores and also in large supermarkets. Depending on what task one wants to perform, there is a large variety of tools available at very affordable prices. Actually, good gardening does not have to require state-of-the-art tools. A pair of good leather gloves, some leather boots, a pair of secatuers and a rake can serve you well and perform a whole range of simple tasks. A secatuer costs around $60.00 for a good one but one can sometimes find good ones for less than that. Secatuers can come in different types. There are those whose blade can be sharpened or even replaced meaning if one becomes worn out there is no need to purchase a new one altogether.
Purchasing gardening tools also depends on a variety of factors. One of them is the size of the garden. For instance, if you have a small garden, there would be no need for a ride-no mower. A regular trimmer would suffice just fine.
Hedge trimmers are also come in handy where there is hedges around the garden which tend to overgrow. In many houses especially in the United States, there is a deed agreement that tells the owner of the home his actual boundaries as far as being able to make modifications. That is why hedge trimmers are important because they ensure that your garden does not grow and spill over into the neighbor's property. Hedge trimmers also come in different styles, some which have curved blades which ensure that the plants do not slide out when being trimmed.
Forks are also ideal when dealing with compost and breaking up lumps of soil. When purchasing a fork, it is good not to go for the very cheap ones because they do not perform well especially if the soil is hard. While a good fork can cost up to $100.00, every gardener should have one or two.
Shovels are also extremely important to gardening. Costing somewhere in the $50.00 dollar range they are almost indispensable. Among them are a pruning saw and a chipping hoe.
Jackie Winn is the owner of http://gardentipsandsecrets.com a website which aims to provide help and information to the budding gardener.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jackie_Winn
How to Grow Lettuce
Let us face it growing lettuce is one of the favorite crops in the garden because it is relatively easy to grow, it grows fast and saves you lots of money compared to buying it in the shops! It is one of the first salad vegetables of the year that can be planted, and so it is one of the first to be harvested in the spring.
It takes well to most soils and you can squeeze it into a small space, also as it has shallow roots it is also suited to growing in containers as well. Planting it.You can plant it as early as 2 to 4 weeks before the last frost as it tolerates temperature changes such as frost very well, although it is not suited to ongoing freezing temperatures, and can run wild bolting in higher temperatures.
So ideally it is suited to growing in the Autumn or Fall seasons. Lettuce can make do with as little as five hours of sunshine per day, and whilst okay in full sunshine is better suited to a shadier area of your plot to stop it bolting, accordingly it is better when picked early rather than late. It will respond well to a small application of fertilizer.
Note whilst it has shallow roots if you are planting in a container then aim for a soil depth of around 6. If you are planting seeds directly in the garden plant them 3/8 to 1/2 inch deep, cover with a fine layer of compost. Whilst the space between rows varies with the variety, ideally they should be thinned to around 8 inches part.
Often the lettuce are started inside and transplanted outside, however this does not apply to all varieties as some must be sown directly in the soil as they do not transplant well. So always read the seed packet. They need light but consistent watering.
Harvest the whole plant when of a suitable size or for a longer harvest use a sharp knife to cut the leaves off when around 4 inches long.
If you found this article of interest and would like to know more then visit the author's site on growing your own vegetables for more great tips and free advice on growing vegetables.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Richard_Allen
It takes well to most soils and you can squeeze it into a small space, also as it has shallow roots it is also suited to growing in containers as well. Planting it.You can plant it as early as 2 to 4 weeks before the last frost as it tolerates temperature changes such as frost very well, although it is not suited to ongoing freezing temperatures, and can run wild bolting in higher temperatures.
So ideally it is suited to growing in the Autumn or Fall seasons. Lettuce can make do with as little as five hours of sunshine per day, and whilst okay in full sunshine is better suited to a shadier area of your plot to stop it bolting, accordingly it is better when picked early rather than late. It will respond well to a small application of fertilizer.
Note whilst it has shallow roots if you are planting in a container then aim for a soil depth of around 6. If you are planting seeds directly in the garden plant them 3/8 to 1/2 inch deep, cover with a fine layer of compost. Whilst the space between rows varies with the variety, ideally they should be thinned to around 8 inches part.
Often the lettuce are started inside and transplanted outside, however this does not apply to all varieties as some must be sown directly in the soil as they do not transplant well. So always read the seed packet. They need light but consistent watering.
Harvest the whole plant when of a suitable size or for a longer harvest use a sharp knife to cut the leaves off when around 4 inches long.
If you found this article of interest and would like to know more then visit the author's site on growing your own vegetables for more great tips and free advice on growing vegetables.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Richard_Allen
How to Grow Lettuce
Let us face it growing lettuce is one of the favorite crops in the garden because it is relatively easy to grow, it grows fast and saves you lots of money compared to buying it in the shops! It is one of the first salad vegetables of the year that can be planted, and so it is one of the first to be harvested in the spring.
It takes well to most soils and you can squeeze it into a small space, also as it has shallow roots it is also suited to growing in containers as well. Planting it.You can plant it as early as 2 to 4 weeks before the last frost as it tolerates temperature changes such as frost very well, although it is not suited to ongoing freezing temperatures, and can run wild bolting in higher temperatures.
So ideally it is suited to growing in the Autumn or Fall seasons. Lettuce can make do with as little as five hours of sunshine per day, and whilst okay in full sunshine is better suited to a shadier area of your plot to stop it bolting, accordingly it is better when picked early rather than late. It will respond well to a small application of fertilizer.
Note whilst it has shallow roots if you are planting in a container then aim for a soil depth of around 6. If you are planting seeds directly in the garden plant them 3/8 to 1/2 inch deep, cover with a fine layer of compost. Whilst the space between rows varies with the variety, ideally they should be thinned to around 8 inches part.
Often the lettuce are started inside and transplanted outside, however this does not apply to all varieties as some must be sown directly in the soil as they do not transplant well. So always read the seed packet. They need light but consistent watering.
Harvest the whole plant when of a suitable size or for a longer harvest use a sharp knife to cut the leaves off when around 4 inches long.
If you found this article of interest and would like to know more then visit the author's site on growing your own vegetables for more great tips and free advice on growing vegetables.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Richard_Allen
It takes well to most soils and you can squeeze it into a small space, also as it has shallow roots it is also suited to growing in containers as well. Planting it.You can plant it as early as 2 to 4 weeks before the last frost as it tolerates temperature changes such as frost very well, although it is not suited to ongoing freezing temperatures, and can run wild bolting in higher temperatures.
So ideally it is suited to growing in the Autumn or Fall seasons. Lettuce can make do with as little as five hours of sunshine per day, and whilst okay in full sunshine is better suited to a shadier area of your plot to stop it bolting, accordingly it is better when picked early rather than late. It will respond well to a small application of fertilizer.
Note whilst it has shallow roots if you are planting in a container then aim for a soil depth of around 6. If you are planting seeds directly in the garden plant them 3/8 to 1/2 inch deep, cover with a fine layer of compost. Whilst the space between rows varies with the variety, ideally they should be thinned to around 8 inches part.
Often the lettuce are started inside and transplanted outside, however this does not apply to all varieties as some must be sown directly in the soil as they do not transplant well. So always read the seed packet. They need light but consistent watering.
Harvest the whole plant when of a suitable size or for a longer harvest use a sharp knife to cut the leaves off when around 4 inches long.
If you found this article of interest and would like to know more then visit the author's site on growing your own vegetables for more great tips and free advice on growing vegetables.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Richard_Allen
Pruning Climbing Roses Like a Professional Can Be Easy - Learn How
Pruning roses is never an easy task. In fact, it is one of the tasks least liked by old and young gardeners alike. Nobody likes dipping their bare arms into a bush of roses and getting pricked by a stubborn thorn every now and then. But pruning is one of the most vital parts in the proper care of roses. Letting go of this task will surely result in a rose plant too big it will eventually kill itself. The different kinds of rose plants require different kinds of care. We will focus more on pruning climbing roses more than anything else.
Again, there are different kinds of climbing roses. The first kind is the ramblers, or vigorously growing roses that can produce up to 20 feet of canes if left to their own devices. Ramblers produce small flowers and they bloom only once every year, but they bloom gloriously and brilliantly because they produce a lot of small flowers that grow in huge clusters that burst forth from the bud. Ramblers are different from large climbers, often also called true climbers, because they take more time to grow as high as ramblers. Large climbers bloom repeatedly each year and they produce big flowers that can leave any passer-by in awe. To quickly distinguish ramblers from climbers without waiting for the blooming season, simply take a look at their branches. More flexible twigs that allow the roses to climb up to 20 feet will surely tell you that you have a rambler at hand, and you know you have a true climber if you have more rigid stems.
What makes the difference between ramblers and climbers so significant? There is a right time for pruning your roses-that is, when they are dormant so the plant does not go through a lot of shock while being cut back. In single-bloomers like rambling roses, you should take out your pruning tools during the late winter or early spring and after each blooming season. Repeat bloomers do well with once-a-year pruning at the end of the year. But before you start clipping away those old leaves and branches, take a look at how the professionals do it.
Step 1: Clean your tools first to make sure that no fungus, bacteria, or virus gets in touch with their rose plants. Spraying with a disinfectant made of 25% bleach solution is a great way to kill all microorganisms that have attached to the metal. Also, make sure to disinfect the tools after pruning one plant and before moving on to the next just to be certain that no disease spores from the first plant are transferred to the next.
Step 2: The first thing to do is to prune away the old leaves, twigs, and branches. Removing dead, old, and diseased foliage leaves a lot of room for new growth that is more productive when it comes to producing blooms and less susceptible to fungal diseases such as blackspot, rust, and botrytis blight. Your main focus here should be, "Out with the old, in with the new."
Step 3: Step back and set a framework for yourself to follow. Which way would you like your climbing roses to grow? The answer to that is sideways. Growing horizontal climbers is the key to vigorous and vibrant blooms every year. This is because the buds of shoots grown upwards release certain natural chemicals that inhibit the development of lower buds. If all the buds are found at the same level, you can leave this problem out and look forward to a rich blooming season.
Step 4: Individually take off the strings that bind your climbers to their support. This may be a trellis, a wall, or an arch. Whatever its support may be, start pruning climbing roses from below and cut away all canes, leaving only two to five buds per shoot. Remove as much dead wood as possible, but leave ¼ of an inch to support the bud's development. When you're done with this, fasten the cane back to its support using a soft twine or a thin wire. Make sure you do not fasten it too tightly so that the plants have enough room to breathe in. Start working on the other canes.
Step 5: Clean up your area from all dead leaves, twigs, and branches. This lessens the chance of your plants catching fungal diseases whose strains may still be left in the dead foliage.
When you have followed all of these steps, you have successfully pruned your climbing roses the way the professionals do it. It's not an easy task, we admit, but it is one of the most rewarding parts in the proper care of roses. Learn to master pruning and you will learn to like the task itself, as much as you like seeing your roses grow healthy, bright, and beautiful.
Catherine Martin comes from a long line of passionate rose lovers, growers and enthusiasts. As an author, she is committed to demystifying the common rose, so that all who wish to can grow them easily. For more great information on growing climbing roses, visit http://www.rosegardeningexpert.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Catherine_Martin
Again, there are different kinds of climbing roses. The first kind is the ramblers, or vigorously growing roses that can produce up to 20 feet of canes if left to their own devices. Ramblers produce small flowers and they bloom only once every year, but they bloom gloriously and brilliantly because they produce a lot of small flowers that grow in huge clusters that burst forth from the bud. Ramblers are different from large climbers, often also called true climbers, because they take more time to grow as high as ramblers. Large climbers bloom repeatedly each year and they produce big flowers that can leave any passer-by in awe. To quickly distinguish ramblers from climbers without waiting for the blooming season, simply take a look at their branches. More flexible twigs that allow the roses to climb up to 20 feet will surely tell you that you have a rambler at hand, and you know you have a true climber if you have more rigid stems.
What makes the difference between ramblers and climbers so significant? There is a right time for pruning your roses-that is, when they are dormant so the plant does not go through a lot of shock while being cut back. In single-bloomers like rambling roses, you should take out your pruning tools during the late winter or early spring and after each blooming season. Repeat bloomers do well with once-a-year pruning at the end of the year. But before you start clipping away those old leaves and branches, take a look at how the professionals do it.
Step 1: Clean your tools first to make sure that no fungus, bacteria, or virus gets in touch with their rose plants. Spraying with a disinfectant made of 25% bleach solution is a great way to kill all microorganisms that have attached to the metal. Also, make sure to disinfect the tools after pruning one plant and before moving on to the next just to be certain that no disease spores from the first plant are transferred to the next.
Step 2: The first thing to do is to prune away the old leaves, twigs, and branches. Removing dead, old, and diseased foliage leaves a lot of room for new growth that is more productive when it comes to producing blooms and less susceptible to fungal diseases such as blackspot, rust, and botrytis blight. Your main focus here should be, "Out with the old, in with the new."
Step 3: Step back and set a framework for yourself to follow. Which way would you like your climbing roses to grow? The answer to that is sideways. Growing horizontal climbers is the key to vigorous and vibrant blooms every year. This is because the buds of shoots grown upwards release certain natural chemicals that inhibit the development of lower buds. If all the buds are found at the same level, you can leave this problem out and look forward to a rich blooming season.
Step 4: Individually take off the strings that bind your climbers to their support. This may be a trellis, a wall, or an arch. Whatever its support may be, start pruning climbing roses from below and cut away all canes, leaving only two to five buds per shoot. Remove as much dead wood as possible, but leave ¼ of an inch to support the bud's development. When you're done with this, fasten the cane back to its support using a soft twine or a thin wire. Make sure you do not fasten it too tightly so that the plants have enough room to breathe in. Start working on the other canes.
Step 5: Clean up your area from all dead leaves, twigs, and branches. This lessens the chance of your plants catching fungal diseases whose strains may still be left in the dead foliage.
When you have followed all of these steps, you have successfully pruned your climbing roses the way the professionals do it. It's not an easy task, we admit, but it is one of the most rewarding parts in the proper care of roses. Learn to master pruning and you will learn to like the task itself, as much as you like seeing your roses grow healthy, bright, and beautiful.
Catherine Martin comes from a long line of passionate rose lovers, growers and enthusiasts. As an author, she is committed to demystifying the common rose, so that all who wish to can grow them easily. For more great information on growing climbing roses, visit http://www.rosegardeningexpert.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Catherine_Martin
How to Prune Your Rose Bush
Rose bush pruning is a vital part in caring for your rose bush. Pruning can be tricky and intimidating especially for a newbie. There are many ways suggested by experts to help you in proper pruning and this will be discussed below. First, you may wonder why you need to prune? This is done to encourage healthy growth of your plants. By removing dead wood and leaves, also called deadheading, you will be channeling the energy of your rose bush where it's needed the most. This will promote growth of new shoots, and this will result in larger and more blooms. Your garden will look better and more appealing.
Below are things to remember to get the most from rose bush pruning:
o You'll need thick gloves, long-handled loppers, and bypass pruners which are preferred in rose bush pruning compared to the anvil pruners. Make sure that your bypass pruner is sharp so you can make a clean-cut, as ragged cuts can leave your branches exposed to pests and diseases. Also, remember to clean your tools with rubbing alcohol after pruning each bush, so you will not transfer any disease or pest to other plants in your garden.
o The best time for rose bush pruning is early spring when the roses are dormant. The ideal time in doing this is when leaf buds start to swell. This is done at this time to allow growth of new shoots, as rose bushes flower best during this period. Of course, you can do this anytime of the year if your plant is diseased.
o Start at the base of your rose bush. Pruning is done primarily to remove broken, dead as well as dying parts of the plant. This should include weak or thin stems, so you can make way for healthier stems to grow. How can you determine if a stem is dead? If they're healthy, the color of the stem is green. But, if their color is brown or gray, then you'll need to cut these parts of the rose bush. Pruning is done as close to the base as possible to make sure that you'll get all of the diseased parts. If you leave them alone, they can spread and you can have a tall plant with very few flowers or you can have a dying plant, throughout.
o When you make the cut, do it at a 45 degree angle, about ¼ inch above a bud that's facing outward. Direct growth outward, you can do this by cutting buds that are facing inward to keep the center of the bush open. This will allow better air circulation.
o Do not paint or dab on the cuts made because they can heal on their own, except, if the cuts are significant. If the cut is like the diameter of a pencil, consider sealing it with white glue or paint to allow faster healing.
o Remove branches that are criss-crossing or rubbing against one another to prevent congestion and allow better breathing space. Leave about 3 to 6 canes as keepers.
o Remove suckers or wayward canes at the base of the plant, these suckers compete with them for nutrients.
o After doing all these, look at your rose bush. Prune to shape them better to your liking.
o Pick up all the stems or wastes that have fallen off after your careful time - rose bush pruning.
Danielle Hastings is an avid gardener and a lover of roses. She has searched far and wide to bring in the best possible information on growing roses. To learn more about rose bush care, click the link below to visit her site. There are plenty of free articles, and a free email course on roses. http://www.secretbookofroses.com/
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Danielle_Hastings
Below are things to remember to get the most from rose bush pruning:
o You'll need thick gloves, long-handled loppers, and bypass pruners which are preferred in rose bush pruning compared to the anvil pruners. Make sure that your bypass pruner is sharp so you can make a clean-cut, as ragged cuts can leave your branches exposed to pests and diseases. Also, remember to clean your tools with rubbing alcohol after pruning each bush, so you will not transfer any disease or pest to other plants in your garden.
o The best time for rose bush pruning is early spring when the roses are dormant. The ideal time in doing this is when leaf buds start to swell. This is done at this time to allow growth of new shoots, as rose bushes flower best during this period. Of course, you can do this anytime of the year if your plant is diseased.
o Start at the base of your rose bush. Pruning is done primarily to remove broken, dead as well as dying parts of the plant. This should include weak or thin stems, so you can make way for healthier stems to grow. How can you determine if a stem is dead? If they're healthy, the color of the stem is green. But, if their color is brown or gray, then you'll need to cut these parts of the rose bush. Pruning is done as close to the base as possible to make sure that you'll get all of the diseased parts. If you leave them alone, they can spread and you can have a tall plant with very few flowers or you can have a dying plant, throughout.
o When you make the cut, do it at a 45 degree angle, about ¼ inch above a bud that's facing outward. Direct growth outward, you can do this by cutting buds that are facing inward to keep the center of the bush open. This will allow better air circulation.
o Do not paint or dab on the cuts made because they can heal on their own, except, if the cuts are significant. If the cut is like the diameter of a pencil, consider sealing it with white glue or paint to allow faster healing.
o Remove branches that are criss-crossing or rubbing against one another to prevent congestion and allow better breathing space. Leave about 3 to 6 canes as keepers.
o Remove suckers or wayward canes at the base of the plant, these suckers compete with them for nutrients.
o After doing all these, look at your rose bush. Prune to shape them better to your liking.
o Pick up all the stems or wastes that have fallen off after your careful time - rose bush pruning.
Danielle Hastings is an avid gardener and a lover of roses. She has searched far and wide to bring in the best possible information on growing roses. To learn more about rose bush care, click the link below to visit her site. There are plenty of free articles, and a free email course on roses. http://www.secretbookofroses.com/
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Danielle_Hastings
How To Prune Your Roses For Stunning Results
Pruning and deadheading are essential to proper rose care. Alas, there are nearly as many opinions about how and when to prune as there are roses in need of pruning.
While seasoned rosarians have their favorite tried-and-true methods, this article is geared toward new-comers who are unsure where to start. As time goes by, you may feel the urge to modify these techniques or even develop new ones of your own. Great! If it doesn't kill your roses, go right ahead.
Rose pruning isn't as complicated as some people make it out to be. In fact, there are only 7 basic rules. If you keep these in mind whenever you pick up your pruning shears, you'll be rewarded with beautiful bushes that reflect the care that you put into them.
Basic Pruning Rules
1. Always remove any dead or decayed growth. This keeps your bushes looking good and denies disease and insects a place to call home.
2. Always keep the center of the bush free of growth. This denies insects a place to live, and allows good air circulation to avoid fungus infection.
3. Remove crossing branches to promote stronger growth.
4. Shape your rose bushes as they grow. This will change them from wild and wooly to prim and proper, as all good roses should be.
5. Always using sharp pruning shears.
6. Clean the shears after each use to remove any disease or fungus spores.
7. Seal the cuts you've made on canes to keep out disease. Regular Elmer's glue works fine and it is cheap.
Pruning Terms And Techniques
Hard (or "Low") Pruning -- Cut canes back to 3 or 4 buds from the base or the bud unions. The end result will be strong canes about 4 to 5 inches in length. This pruning technique works best with new hybrid tea, grandiflora, and floribunda varieties. You should not do hard pruning with established bushes because they may not recycle. The only exception is as a last-ditch effort to revive sick or neglected bushes.
Moderate (or Medium) Pruning -- Cut strong stems back to approximately half of their length. Weaker stems may be cut back even more, if needed. This technique works well with established gardens of floribundas, hybrid teas, grandifloras, and tree roses.
Light (High or Long) Pruning -- Cut the canes back to around 2/3 of their length. After all the unwanted "wood" is removed, any remaining stems are "tipped". Light pruning is not usually recommended for most bushes, because it tends to produce early blooms and poorly developed flowers. Use this technique only if others are not working and the bush is an eyesore.
Proper pruning is easy, and it is the key to a happy, healthy rose garden.
Ron King is a full-time researcher, writer, and web developer. Visit Grow-Roses-Now to learn more about this fascinating hobby.
Copyright 2005 Ron King. This article may be reprinted if the resource box is left intact.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ron_King
While seasoned rosarians have their favorite tried-and-true methods, this article is geared toward new-comers who are unsure where to start. As time goes by, you may feel the urge to modify these techniques or even develop new ones of your own. Great! If it doesn't kill your roses, go right ahead.
Rose pruning isn't as complicated as some people make it out to be. In fact, there are only 7 basic rules. If you keep these in mind whenever you pick up your pruning shears, you'll be rewarded with beautiful bushes that reflect the care that you put into them.
Basic Pruning Rules
1. Always remove any dead or decayed growth. This keeps your bushes looking good and denies disease and insects a place to call home.
2. Always keep the center of the bush free of growth. This denies insects a place to live, and allows good air circulation to avoid fungus infection.
3. Remove crossing branches to promote stronger growth.
4. Shape your rose bushes as they grow. This will change them from wild and wooly to prim and proper, as all good roses should be.
5. Always using sharp pruning shears.
6. Clean the shears after each use to remove any disease or fungus spores.
7. Seal the cuts you've made on canes to keep out disease. Regular Elmer's glue works fine and it is cheap.
Pruning Terms And Techniques
Hard (or "Low") Pruning -- Cut canes back to 3 or 4 buds from the base or the bud unions. The end result will be strong canes about 4 to 5 inches in length. This pruning technique works best with new hybrid tea, grandiflora, and floribunda varieties. You should not do hard pruning with established bushes because they may not recycle. The only exception is as a last-ditch effort to revive sick or neglected bushes.
Moderate (or Medium) Pruning -- Cut strong stems back to approximately half of their length. Weaker stems may be cut back even more, if needed. This technique works well with established gardens of floribundas, hybrid teas, grandifloras, and tree roses.
Light (High or Long) Pruning -- Cut the canes back to around 2/3 of their length. After all the unwanted "wood" is removed, any remaining stems are "tipped". Light pruning is not usually recommended for most bushes, because it tends to produce early blooms and poorly developed flowers. Use this technique only if others are not working and the bush is an eyesore.
Proper pruning is easy, and it is the key to a happy, healthy rose garden.
Ron King is a full-time researcher, writer, and web developer. Visit Grow-Roses-Now to learn more about this fascinating hobby.
Copyright 2005 Ron King. This article may be reprinted if the resource box is left intact.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ron_King
How to Plant a Heather Garden
When planning a garden of heather, begin by making an outline of your area first. If you're planning a border, start from the back of the bed with the taller plants and work forward; if the bed is to be viewed from all sides, begin sketching your design from the center out. If you have room, planting varieties in odd-numbered groups is most effective. Even numbers of plants often make a new garden look too balanced and unnatural. Draw circles outlining the area that the plants will fill out at maturity (about 3-5 years) growing into a weed smothering mass. Roughly figure 18" spacing when determining how many plants you will need (sq. ft. x .44 is the formula) for a large bed. Choose the taller growing varieties for the back or center of the bed and work your way to the edges, keeping in mind that the plants will grow into a solid mass of foliage leaving little bare ground exposed. Grays and dark greens absorb light; reds, gold and glossy foliage reflect. You want contrasting foliage to define each grouping, so choose a gold or other colored foliage variety, then choose a silver, gray or dark green for the next grouping. Flower color is not as important as you may think but offset the mauves with white or light pinks if the plants are to bloom at the same time. Use the winter blooming Erica's' glossy green foliage as a buffer between a lot of Calluna with colored foliage.
This may all sound a bit confusing on the printed page, but don't let it be because they are all compatible with each other. Arrange them until the placement looks right to you. You may want to plant other types of plants in the heather garden. Dwarf conifers are natural companions with interesting foliage and habit of growth. The vertical forms they achieve are welcome in the heather garden. Other companion plants are: low growing Sedum's, Iberis, Hypericum, Lavender, Sempervivum, Allium, Arabis, Artemisia, Dianthus, Nepeta, Santolina, and Thyme to name a few perennials. Compact Cotoneaster, Vaccinum, Cytisus and other leafy shrubs can also be interesting companion plants in a garden of heather.
FOUNDATION PLANTINGS - Use heather in a foundation planting to eliminate the straight lines and formality that is often created with more typical plants. In the Northeast, Taxus, Rhododendron and Juniper are commonly used; heather is a natural companion to these evergreens. Use them to hide bare branches at the base of shrubs, to fill voids between larger shrubs, and to bring entire plantings away from the house. A long, curving line is more natural and can be creatively designed with the different heights and foliage colors of heather. The evergreen foliage can be the finishing touch needed to bring a foundation planting together.
PERENNIAL BEDS AND BORDERS - Gardens of perennials often lack visual interest during the winter months when the herbaceous species are dormant, waiting for spring's call of warmer temperatures. In the late summer months when many perennials are waning, many of the Callunas are flowering heaviest. The structure and foliage color of these evergreens can also be used to an advantage. The winter blooming Ericas are natural selections for winter color. Erica carnea and E. x darlyensis start forming buds in early summer, that open as early as November in shades of pink, rose or white. These long lasting flowers are colorful all winter until the first of May when many of the spring bulbs are in full bloom. The soil requirements are a bit different than those of some perennials but you may be able to provide them with a site that has a well drained soil that has not had a lot of fertilizer and manure added.
NATIVE AND WILD GARDENS - Fifteen plants of Calluna vulgaris were originally planted some 80 years ago at the edge of a pine barren here on Cape Cod. Over the years, seedlings have taken a foothold in the sandy native soil and have naturalized . Little care has been given to this area that is now over 80 feet long and 30 feet wide. The natural succession that has occurred has left this area with 3-4 dominant natural cultivars which bloom in August and is spectacular. The same effect can be achieved by planting some of the taller cultivars we offer, spaced about 2' apart. Prune heavily the first 3-4 springs to obtain a broad sweep of thick foliage and heavy flowering.
Happy Gardening!
David and Alissa Dewitt are the owners of Rock Spray Nursery, the largest US grower of the hardy Heath and Heather plants. Visit their informative website at http://rockspray.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=David_DeWitt
This may all sound a bit confusing on the printed page, but don't let it be because they are all compatible with each other. Arrange them until the placement looks right to you. You may want to plant other types of plants in the heather garden. Dwarf conifers are natural companions with interesting foliage and habit of growth. The vertical forms they achieve are welcome in the heather garden. Other companion plants are: low growing Sedum's, Iberis, Hypericum, Lavender, Sempervivum, Allium, Arabis, Artemisia, Dianthus, Nepeta, Santolina, and Thyme to name a few perennials. Compact Cotoneaster, Vaccinum, Cytisus and other leafy shrubs can also be interesting companion plants in a garden of heather.
FOUNDATION PLANTINGS - Use heather in a foundation planting to eliminate the straight lines and formality that is often created with more typical plants. In the Northeast, Taxus, Rhododendron and Juniper are commonly used; heather is a natural companion to these evergreens. Use them to hide bare branches at the base of shrubs, to fill voids between larger shrubs, and to bring entire plantings away from the house. A long, curving line is more natural and can be creatively designed with the different heights and foliage colors of heather. The evergreen foliage can be the finishing touch needed to bring a foundation planting together.
PERENNIAL BEDS AND BORDERS - Gardens of perennials often lack visual interest during the winter months when the herbaceous species are dormant, waiting for spring's call of warmer temperatures. In the late summer months when many perennials are waning, many of the Callunas are flowering heaviest. The structure and foliage color of these evergreens can also be used to an advantage. The winter blooming Ericas are natural selections for winter color. Erica carnea and E. x darlyensis start forming buds in early summer, that open as early as November in shades of pink, rose or white. These long lasting flowers are colorful all winter until the first of May when many of the spring bulbs are in full bloom. The soil requirements are a bit different than those of some perennials but you may be able to provide them with a site that has a well drained soil that has not had a lot of fertilizer and manure added.
NATIVE AND WILD GARDENS - Fifteen plants of Calluna vulgaris were originally planted some 80 years ago at the edge of a pine barren here on Cape Cod. Over the years, seedlings have taken a foothold in the sandy native soil and have naturalized . Little care has been given to this area that is now over 80 feet long and 30 feet wide. The natural succession that has occurred has left this area with 3-4 dominant natural cultivars which bloom in August and is spectacular. The same effect can be achieved by planting some of the taller cultivars we offer, spaced about 2' apart. Prune heavily the first 3-4 springs to obtain a broad sweep of thick foliage and heavy flowering.
Happy Gardening!
David and Alissa Dewitt are the owners of Rock Spray Nursery, the largest US grower of the hardy Heath and Heather plants. Visit their informative website at http://rockspray.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=David_DeWitt
The Plants Perfect For an English Garden
Here's good news for gardening lovers out there, it is possible to set up an English garden in one's own backyard and profit from it every year. It does not matter how much space you've got for your garden. What's more important is your choice of plants that will make your garden even more beautiful.
What are the plants that you could grow to add a touch of English elegance in your garden? The usual flowers that are grown in an English garden are perennial plants such as hibiscus, bee balm, phlox, veronica, and hydrangea. To complement your perennial plants, you may consider adding annual flowers such as marigolds, pansies, and cosmos.
And of course, English gardens are not complete without roses. You may use roses to border your lawn space or put them along a trellis-either way, the beauty and fragrance of roses will make your garden unmistakably English.
Flowers are not the only plants that should fill your English garden. To add variety and appeal to your garden, it is best to plant shrubs, herbs, and vegetables along with flowers in your lawn area. Planting grass is optional; it depends on your purpose for the lawn space as well as how much mowing you can do regularly.
For more details about English gardening, it is recommended that you ask a long time gardener who can provide you, in detail, thousands of appropriate plants for English gardens. They are surely your trusty guide to forming the kind of garden you've always desired.
Jim Davis, a garden lover, has been gardening for over 50 years. Visit http://www.simplelivingbooks.com/ for more information.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=J_Arthur_Davis
What are the plants that you could grow to add a touch of English elegance in your garden? The usual flowers that are grown in an English garden are perennial plants such as hibiscus, bee balm, phlox, veronica, and hydrangea. To complement your perennial plants, you may consider adding annual flowers such as marigolds, pansies, and cosmos.
And of course, English gardens are not complete without roses. You may use roses to border your lawn space or put them along a trellis-either way, the beauty and fragrance of roses will make your garden unmistakably English.
Flowers are not the only plants that should fill your English garden. To add variety and appeal to your garden, it is best to plant shrubs, herbs, and vegetables along with flowers in your lawn area. Planting grass is optional; it depends on your purpose for the lawn space as well as how much mowing you can do regularly.
For more details about English gardening, it is recommended that you ask a long time gardener who can provide you, in detail, thousands of appropriate plants for English gardens. They are surely your trusty guide to forming the kind of garden you've always desired.
Jim Davis, a garden lover, has been gardening for over 50 years. Visit http://www.simplelivingbooks.com/ for more information.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=J_Arthur_Davis
Top 10 Best English Garden Roses
An English garden rose is a hybrid rose cross-bred rose combining the richness of old English roses and English roses with the hardiness of modern varieties. In 1969, rose enthusiast David Austin crossed Gallicas and Floribundas, Damasks and Hybrid Teas, Bourbons and Modern Climbers, and more. They were called Austin roses, later becoming known as English roses.
In this article, we will outline the top ten best English roses to guide you in choosing the rose varieties you want to grow in your own garden. Here they are:
1. Mary Rose. It's not hard to see why many people like this hard shrub which produces full bloom deep pink roses and a light old rose scent with hints of honey and almond. Mary Rose is not vulnerable to the winter cold and fungal diseases. It has even a good growth rate during the summer.
2. Graham Thomas. Introduced to the English rosarian world in 1983, this butter-colored rose is the most popular English rose there is. Nothing else---not even the Hybrid Teas---can match its rich yellowness, which later on becomes paler. Its growth is upright and bushy and its slender stems may need stalking for support. In 2000, the Graham Thomas won the James Mason Award at the Royal National Rose Society. This disease-resistant rose has a strong tea fragrance typical of its color group, with a hint of violet. In warmer climates, Graham Thomas is also grown as a climber, but is said to have fewer blooms.
3. The Mayflower. This deep rose pink bloom is purely old English rose in characteristic, but it has virtually zero susceptibility to rust, blackspot and mildew. While it rarely produces a huge bunch of roses at any time, the Mayflower never runs out of flowers. Growth is full and twiggy with a little less of matt green foliage than other roses.
4. Wild Edric. This shrub rose will survive under extreme weather conditions, making it a popular among beginners. It starts as a pointed pink-and-purple bud that opens into semi-double petals of deep pink with shades of mauve and purple. Interestingly, its petals have a classic old rose fragrance with cucumber and watercress overtones while its stamens smell of pure clove.
5. Heritage. David Austin himself called this the "most beautiful English garden rose," and it's not hard to see why. With a delicate shell-pink hue that almost fades to white at the edges, the petals perfectly cup around the center. The heritage rose grows to become a well-formed bush. Its plant has little thorns and blooms repeatedly throughout the year. It has a lovely scent, with mixed tones of honey, fruit and carnation and a classic old rose background.
6. Grace. This apricot-colored rose has petals cupped to form a perfect rosette. It's a perfect English garden rose because it blends attractively with flowers of other colors, emits a warm and sensuous scent, and produces rich, full blooms all throughout the year.
7. Abraham Darby. A strong, vigorous plant found excellent for growing arches. Imagine adorning your front doors with an arc of these large peach-apricot flowers that turn light pink at the edges and its glossy, green leaves. Abraham Darby is a disease-resistant vine that emits a strong fruity scent.
8. Claire Austin. This is the only white rose that made it to this list, not surprisingly, because of its beauty and its hardiness under different kinds of conditions and against plant diseases. The petals are large and creamy white formed in perfect concentric circles and sporting a scent similar to a mix of vanilla, heliotrope and meadowsweet.
9. Gertrude Jekyll. Known to have the timeless scent of the old English rose, Gertrude Jekyll won the James Mason Award in 2002. It has, much like its Portland rose parent, a rich pink color and very thorny canes that should be pruned regularly for repeated flowering.
10. Evelyn. This shrub produces gigantic blooms literally the size of saucers, and such magnificent blooms they are. The petals are peach with tinges of pink and yellow around the edges. Evelyn has an old rose fragrance and a slight fruity scent that reminds you of apricots and peaches.
Now that you have gone through our list of top ten best English roses, we hope it is now easier for you to make your selections for your future rose garden. We'd like to see those lush blooms glowing radiantly soon. Happy planting!
Catherine Martin comes from a long line of passionate rose lovers, growers and enthusiasts. As an author, she is committed to demystifying the common rose, so that all who wish to can grow them easily. For more great information on the best English garden Rose, visit http://www.rosegardeningexpert.com.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Catherine_Martin
In this article, we will outline the top ten best English roses to guide you in choosing the rose varieties you want to grow in your own garden. Here they are:
1. Mary Rose. It's not hard to see why many people like this hard shrub which produces full bloom deep pink roses and a light old rose scent with hints of honey and almond. Mary Rose is not vulnerable to the winter cold and fungal diseases. It has even a good growth rate during the summer.
2. Graham Thomas. Introduced to the English rosarian world in 1983, this butter-colored rose is the most popular English rose there is. Nothing else---not even the Hybrid Teas---can match its rich yellowness, which later on becomes paler. Its growth is upright and bushy and its slender stems may need stalking for support. In 2000, the Graham Thomas won the James Mason Award at the Royal National Rose Society. This disease-resistant rose has a strong tea fragrance typical of its color group, with a hint of violet. In warmer climates, Graham Thomas is also grown as a climber, but is said to have fewer blooms.
3. The Mayflower. This deep rose pink bloom is purely old English rose in characteristic, but it has virtually zero susceptibility to rust, blackspot and mildew. While it rarely produces a huge bunch of roses at any time, the Mayflower never runs out of flowers. Growth is full and twiggy with a little less of matt green foliage than other roses.
4. Wild Edric. This shrub rose will survive under extreme weather conditions, making it a popular among beginners. It starts as a pointed pink-and-purple bud that opens into semi-double petals of deep pink with shades of mauve and purple. Interestingly, its petals have a classic old rose fragrance with cucumber and watercress overtones while its stamens smell of pure clove.
5. Heritage. David Austin himself called this the "most beautiful English garden rose," and it's not hard to see why. With a delicate shell-pink hue that almost fades to white at the edges, the petals perfectly cup around the center. The heritage rose grows to become a well-formed bush. Its plant has little thorns and blooms repeatedly throughout the year. It has a lovely scent, with mixed tones of honey, fruit and carnation and a classic old rose background.
6. Grace. This apricot-colored rose has petals cupped to form a perfect rosette. It's a perfect English garden rose because it blends attractively with flowers of other colors, emits a warm and sensuous scent, and produces rich, full blooms all throughout the year.
7. Abraham Darby. A strong, vigorous plant found excellent for growing arches. Imagine adorning your front doors with an arc of these large peach-apricot flowers that turn light pink at the edges and its glossy, green leaves. Abraham Darby is a disease-resistant vine that emits a strong fruity scent.
8. Claire Austin. This is the only white rose that made it to this list, not surprisingly, because of its beauty and its hardiness under different kinds of conditions and against plant diseases. The petals are large and creamy white formed in perfect concentric circles and sporting a scent similar to a mix of vanilla, heliotrope and meadowsweet.
9. Gertrude Jekyll. Known to have the timeless scent of the old English rose, Gertrude Jekyll won the James Mason Award in 2002. It has, much like its Portland rose parent, a rich pink color and very thorny canes that should be pruned regularly for repeated flowering.
10. Evelyn. This shrub produces gigantic blooms literally the size of saucers, and such magnificent blooms they are. The petals are peach with tinges of pink and yellow around the edges. Evelyn has an old rose fragrance and a slight fruity scent that reminds you of apricots and peaches.
Now that you have gone through our list of top ten best English roses, we hope it is now easier for you to make your selections for your future rose garden. We'd like to see those lush blooms glowing radiantly soon. Happy planting!
Catherine Martin comes from a long line of passionate rose lovers, growers and enthusiasts. As an author, she is committed to demystifying the common rose, so that all who wish to can grow them easily. For more great information on the best English garden Rose, visit http://www.rosegardeningexpert.com.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Catherine_Martin
Types of Turf Grass
Grass is a very popular plant in most gardens all over Australia; this is because it's hard wearing, can be low maintenance, has longevity and very economical compared to other forms of ground cover. Many people assume that that there is only one type of grass; however this is not true. There are in fact a number of different types of grass that you might be interested in.
Growing from Seed
Some people will try growing grass from seed; the problem with this is that the birds quite like eating the seeds. This makes it very difficult to actually grow much grass. A much easier option is to purchase turf; this has already been grown and is then cut and rolled for easy placement in your garden. Turf comes in different varieties with each having its own unique properties, the problem is in deciding which type of grass would suit your needs and garden. Instant lawns have become more popular in recent times and because of this more turf distributors have started appearing in Melbourne.
Grasses can be broadly divided into two categories, warm season grasses and cool season grasses. The warm season grasses use less water than the cool season grasses. They may lose some colour in the winter. The best time for their installation from September through May. On the other hand, cool season grasses can be installed all year round and look great all the time.
Apart from this division, grasses can also be classified based on the type of use they are going to be put to. The grass used for gardens and lawns is soft and is called buffalo. The grass for sports fields, on the other hand, has to be hardy as it has to undergo lots of wear and tear. This type of grass is rougher than the buffalo and is called couch grass. Another type of grass which was previously used only in pastures has become quite popular these days. It is fescue, a grass having stiff, narrow leaves. The following are some brands of available grasses listed along with the season in which they should be planted and the classification based on usage.
Sir Walter - warm season grass/premium lawn turf (buffalo)
Legend - warm season grass/ couch grass
Wintergreen - warm season grass/ couch grass
Santa Ana - warm season grass/ couch grass
Kikuyu - warm season grass/ couch grass
EasiCare(TM) - cool season grass/tall fescue
RTF(TM) - cool season grass/tall fescue
EasiGreen(TM) - cool season grass/bluegrass/rye
There are many companies which will be able to tell you about the various types of turf like couch grass, kikuyu, tall fescue Sir Walter lawn, Sir Walter buffalo, and other types of instant turf/grasses. One such company is StrathAyr which has a range of superior lawns for commercial or residential applications.
The different types of lawn are suitable for different applications; which is why it's so important to discuss your choices with a professional before deciding the type of turf you are going to lay, as any mistake could mean a loss of the initial investment. Companies such as StrathAyr have plenty of varieties on offer that can be matched to your requirements. StrathAyr also helps you select a variety based on water requirements as well as the amount of maintenance required. Know more about the different varieties of grasses/turfs they have on offer at http://www.strathayr.com.au
http://www.strathayr.com.au
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Billy_B_Thompson
Growing from Seed
Some people will try growing grass from seed; the problem with this is that the birds quite like eating the seeds. This makes it very difficult to actually grow much grass. A much easier option is to purchase turf; this has already been grown and is then cut and rolled for easy placement in your garden. Turf comes in different varieties with each having its own unique properties, the problem is in deciding which type of grass would suit your needs and garden. Instant lawns have become more popular in recent times and because of this more turf distributors have started appearing in Melbourne.
Grasses can be broadly divided into two categories, warm season grasses and cool season grasses. The warm season grasses use less water than the cool season grasses. They may lose some colour in the winter. The best time for their installation from September through May. On the other hand, cool season grasses can be installed all year round and look great all the time.
Apart from this division, grasses can also be classified based on the type of use they are going to be put to. The grass used for gardens and lawns is soft and is called buffalo. The grass for sports fields, on the other hand, has to be hardy as it has to undergo lots of wear and tear. This type of grass is rougher than the buffalo and is called couch grass. Another type of grass which was previously used only in pastures has become quite popular these days. It is fescue, a grass having stiff, narrow leaves. The following are some brands of available grasses listed along with the season in which they should be planted and the classification based on usage.
Sir Walter - warm season grass/premium lawn turf (buffalo)
Legend - warm season grass/ couch grass
Wintergreen - warm season grass/ couch grass
Santa Ana - warm season grass/ couch grass
Kikuyu - warm season grass/ couch grass
EasiCare(TM) - cool season grass/tall fescue
RTF(TM) - cool season grass/tall fescue
EasiGreen(TM) - cool season grass/bluegrass/rye
There are many companies which will be able to tell you about the various types of turf like couch grass, kikuyu, tall fescue Sir Walter lawn, Sir Walter buffalo, and other types of instant turf/grasses. One such company is StrathAyr which has a range of superior lawns for commercial or residential applications.
The different types of lawn are suitable for different applications; which is why it's so important to discuss your choices with a professional before deciding the type of turf you are going to lay, as any mistake could mean a loss of the initial investment. Companies such as StrathAyr have plenty of varieties on offer that can be matched to your requirements. StrathAyr also helps you select a variety based on water requirements as well as the amount of maintenance required. Know more about the different varieties of grasses/turfs they have on offer at http://www.strathayr.com.au
http://www.strathayr.com.au
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Billy_B_Thompson
How To Lay Lawn Turf
Here is how to order and lay lawn turf:
Order your turf only after you have completed all the preparations.
Arrange for your turf to arrive no more than 1 day before you plan to
lay it. When it arrives, if the weather is hot and dry, soak the
outside of the pallet with water, making sure to apply plenty water
to the ends of rolls that are showing. You should order an appropriate
pre-turfing fertiliser with your turf.
How to lay turf:
Stage 1:
Sprinkle pre-turfing fertiliser evenly over the area. Rake lightly
to incorporate it and give the finished smooth surface.
Stage 2:
It is time to lay the turf. You can either lay turf whilst standing
on the prepared ground or whilst standing on laid turf with the use
of boards to prevent marking your new lawn. If you stand on the
soil, give each new row a light rake to remove your foot marks.
Stage 3:
Start from a long straight edge and roll out a turf. DO NOT
stretch the turf or you will get shrinkage later. If you are happy
with the angle of your first turf, roll out the next one. Push the
starting edge of the second turf hard against the first one, making
sure to butt all joins up tightly. Do not have turf overlapping
on top of already laid turf. You can use the back of the rake to
pull the turf tightly together.
Stage 4:
You do not need to roll or tamp the turf at this stage except at
the joins or edges. However if you have a very light roller this
can be used to increase the turf to soil contact. Make sure and
manually flatten the very start (centre) of the roll of turf (where
the harvesting machine first turned the turf) As it is always
misshapen.
Stage 5:
If you have gaps created through poor cutting or uneven turf sizes,
you can blend the edges closer together by manually stretching,
almost tearing the edges. (like flattening out dough). The turf
will contract back a bit but you do improve the join. If the gaps
are too big for that, use a Stanley knife to cut slivers from your
off cuts of turf and squeeze these into the join. Remember wherever
you do that type of join, will need extra water to aid recovery.
Stage 6:
Here's a little secret used by turf laying professionals to
increase the "wow" factor on a new lawn.
Roll out your alternate rows in opposite directions. This gives a good
striped "just mown" appearance. Do not use small cuttings at edges
of lawn. Use them in the middle.
Stage 7:
It is best to do your edges last, leave enough turf overlapping
your proposed edge, that once you are done, you can lay a hose or
rope on the edge and use an edging iron to shape your turf. This
can be left quite rough, you can smooth this off easier when the
turf has rooted in a couple of weeks.
Stage 8:
When you are done, unless a good amount of rain is
forecast, you must water the grass. If you can't apply water due to
hosepipe bans or water meters, then leave turf laying to the
autumn/winter season This must be a very good soak, it may take
several hours of sprinkler to put on enough. This must be repeated
regularly for 1 month.
That's you done.
Angus Cheyne is a land based scientist specialising in laying and maintaining lawn turf.
See his work at http://www.turfandstuff.com/index.php and http://www.lawnwizard.co.uk.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Angus_Cheyne
Order your turf only after you have completed all the preparations.
Arrange for your turf to arrive no more than 1 day before you plan to
lay it. When it arrives, if the weather is hot and dry, soak the
outside of the pallet with water, making sure to apply plenty water
to the ends of rolls that are showing. You should order an appropriate
pre-turfing fertiliser with your turf.
How to lay turf:
Stage 1:
Sprinkle pre-turfing fertiliser evenly over the area. Rake lightly
to incorporate it and give the finished smooth surface.
Stage 2:
It is time to lay the turf. You can either lay turf whilst standing
on the prepared ground or whilst standing on laid turf with the use
of boards to prevent marking your new lawn. If you stand on the
soil, give each new row a light rake to remove your foot marks.
Stage 3:
Start from a long straight edge and roll out a turf. DO NOT
stretch the turf or you will get shrinkage later. If you are happy
with the angle of your first turf, roll out the next one. Push the
starting edge of the second turf hard against the first one, making
sure to butt all joins up tightly. Do not have turf overlapping
on top of already laid turf. You can use the back of the rake to
pull the turf tightly together.
Stage 4:
You do not need to roll or tamp the turf at this stage except at
the joins or edges. However if you have a very light roller this
can be used to increase the turf to soil contact. Make sure and
manually flatten the very start (centre) of the roll of turf (where
the harvesting machine first turned the turf) As it is always
misshapen.
Stage 5:
If you have gaps created through poor cutting or uneven turf sizes,
you can blend the edges closer together by manually stretching,
almost tearing the edges. (like flattening out dough). The turf
will contract back a bit but you do improve the join. If the gaps
are too big for that, use a Stanley knife to cut slivers from your
off cuts of turf and squeeze these into the join. Remember wherever
you do that type of join, will need extra water to aid recovery.
Stage 6:
Here's a little secret used by turf laying professionals to
increase the "wow" factor on a new lawn.
Roll out your alternate rows in opposite directions. This gives a good
striped "just mown" appearance. Do not use small cuttings at edges
of lawn. Use them in the middle.
Stage 7:
It is best to do your edges last, leave enough turf overlapping
your proposed edge, that once you are done, you can lay a hose or
rope on the edge and use an edging iron to shape your turf. This
can be left quite rough, you can smooth this off easier when the
turf has rooted in a couple of weeks.
Stage 8:
When you are done, unless a good amount of rain is
forecast, you must water the grass. If you can't apply water due to
hosepipe bans or water meters, then leave turf laying to the
autumn/winter season This must be a very good soak, it may take
several hours of sprinkler to put on enough. This must be repeated
regularly for 1 month.
That's you done.
Angus Cheyne is a land based scientist specialising in laying and maintaining lawn turf.
See his work at http://www.turfandstuff.com/index.php and http://www.lawnwizard.co.uk.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Angus_Cheyne
Buying Turf Online and Where to Buy
If you're thinking of buying a new lawn then this article should cover all you will need to know, before you place your order. There are many different types of lawn turf available online and it may be confusing, but all you need to remember is there are only 2 types of turf - a coarse bladed turf ideal for children and pets which will take a lot of hard wear and a finer bladed leaf turf which is go for show lawns and golf greens.
Firstly you will need to measure your lawn, you will need to know 2 dimensions - the length of your lawn area and the width of your lawn area. To work out how much to need you times the length by the width, divide it by 9 which converts it to metres and then divide again by 1.198 which converts your area to metres.
Next you want to find the turf supplier you wish to use, please take note on what you need to look for firstly do they offer next day delivery turf will be guaranteed fresh if it is, if they do not offer next day delivery you may receive old turf. next do they offer after service and advice. Cheap turf isn't always the best way to buy your turf as most cheap turf is cheap for a reason! Always remember pennies saved now, can cost pounds in the future!
You will also need to make sure that you have good topsoil for your new lawn to be laid on a compost and topsoil mix is what we always recommend as the compost will allow the turf to establish quickly but the topsoil makes the compost not too acidic.
Casey Watmore
http://www.Royalsoil.co.uk
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=C_Watmore
Firstly you will need to measure your lawn, you will need to know 2 dimensions - the length of your lawn area and the width of your lawn area. To work out how much to need you times the length by the width, divide it by 9 which converts it to metres and then divide again by 1.198 which converts your area to metres.
Next you want to find the turf supplier you wish to use, please take note on what you need to look for firstly do they offer next day delivery turf will be guaranteed fresh if it is, if they do not offer next day delivery you may receive old turf. next do they offer after service and advice. Cheap turf isn't always the best way to buy your turf as most cheap turf is cheap for a reason! Always remember pennies saved now, can cost pounds in the future!
You will also need to make sure that you have good topsoil for your new lawn to be laid on a compost and topsoil mix is what we always recommend as the compost will allow the turf to establish quickly but the topsoil makes the compost not too acidic.
Casey Watmore
http://www.Royalsoil.co.uk
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=C_Watmore
Gardening Basics: Do You Know Your Garden Zone?
When starting out as a gardener, there are many many things you don't as yet know. In fact, quite often you might not even realize what you don't know, which means they may not be a problem
at the beginning. However, as your experience grows and you become anxious to try out new garden styles, various flowers, plants or shrubs, you'll realize you're going to have to start learning some gardening basics.
For instance, it's important to know in which garden zone you live in. In the United States -- and most parts of the world -- there are garden zones assigned, which makes it a somewhat easier to understand which types of flowers, plants, trees and shrubs grow well in your zone. These zones are separated based on how much heat an area gets, and when the first and last frost of each year take place.
Other factors contribute to the success or failure of growing flowers and other plants, however, including how much natural rain falls, the length of sunlight throughout the day, as well as the types of soils found in the area.
Due to these other factors, garden zones are just a baseline to get you started, but you may discover that some plants you've tried to grow may not always act the way you expect them to in your gardening zone. This is due to the differences within the same zone, and will depend on where you live. Each zone stretches across the country from the east to west coasts, with the lower zones being farther north, and the higher zones being south.
The same zone on the east coast is likely going to be slightly different than the desert southwest mainly because of differences in sun strength and the level of humidity. In addition, there can also be substantial differences in the types of soil naturally present in each area. Thus, while all plants are marked for which zones they'll grow in and how much sun they require, the same plant may perform quite differently in different parts of the country even if it's the same zone.
Here's a good general rule: if you can buy a plant or flower at your local garden center, it's likely to grow with relative success in your area.
It may be best to try and start with small seedling plants and then experiment with them in different locations. You may discover that the your first year planting pansies, for instance, they'll die quickly because they didn't appear to like the full sun location where they were planted. The following year, if you try another spot with less strong sunlight for so many hours of the day, they could thrive and grow much better.
Meanwhile, you may discover that Vincas grow and thrive in the hottest places in your yard, no matter how many hours the sun beats down on them.
If you're interested in finding out which gardening zone you live in, check around on the Internet, or ask at your local garden center or nursery. If you live at the edge of two zones, the good news is that you'll have many more plant varieties to experiment with in your garden because often you'll do well with plants that can grow well in both zones.
Glenn Cutforth is a writer, graphic designer and publisher of quality eBooks at Maxx Publishing http://www.MaxxPublishing.com If you're interested in getting started with your own Garden, visit his website Lawn and Garden Magic at http://www.LawnandGardenMagic.com, where you'll find a wealth of information, tips and resources.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Glenn_Cutforth
at the beginning. However, as your experience grows and you become anxious to try out new garden styles, various flowers, plants or shrubs, you'll realize you're going to have to start learning some gardening basics.
For instance, it's important to know in which garden zone you live in. In the United States -- and most parts of the world -- there are garden zones assigned, which makes it a somewhat easier to understand which types of flowers, plants, trees and shrubs grow well in your zone. These zones are separated based on how much heat an area gets, and when the first and last frost of each year take place.
Other factors contribute to the success or failure of growing flowers and other plants, however, including how much natural rain falls, the length of sunlight throughout the day, as well as the types of soils found in the area.
Due to these other factors, garden zones are just a baseline to get you started, but you may discover that some plants you've tried to grow may not always act the way you expect them to in your gardening zone. This is due to the differences within the same zone, and will depend on where you live. Each zone stretches across the country from the east to west coasts, with the lower zones being farther north, and the higher zones being south.
The same zone on the east coast is likely going to be slightly different than the desert southwest mainly because of differences in sun strength and the level of humidity. In addition, there can also be substantial differences in the types of soil naturally present in each area. Thus, while all plants are marked for which zones they'll grow in and how much sun they require, the same plant may perform quite differently in different parts of the country even if it's the same zone.
Here's a good general rule: if you can buy a plant or flower at your local garden center, it's likely to grow with relative success in your area.
It may be best to try and start with small seedling plants and then experiment with them in different locations. You may discover that the your first year planting pansies, for instance, they'll die quickly because they didn't appear to like the full sun location where they were planted. The following year, if you try another spot with less strong sunlight for so many hours of the day, they could thrive and grow much better.
Meanwhile, you may discover that Vincas grow and thrive in the hottest places in your yard, no matter how many hours the sun beats down on them.
If you're interested in finding out which gardening zone you live in, check around on the Internet, or ask at your local garden center or nursery. If you live at the edge of two zones, the good news is that you'll have many more plant varieties to experiment with in your garden because often you'll do well with plants that can grow well in both zones.
Glenn Cutforth is a writer, graphic designer and publisher of quality eBooks at Maxx Publishing http://www.MaxxPublishing.com If you're interested in getting started with your own Garden, visit his website Lawn and Garden Magic at http://www.LawnandGardenMagic.com, where you'll find a wealth of information, tips and resources.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Glenn_Cutforth
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